Day 1

We went to Kiyomizudera around 7:30am and it was the best decision we made today.  There was hardly any crowd, with a little drizzling, the weather was perfect for a hike.

Kiyomizudera 清水寺

This Buddhist temple is a UNESCO Historical World Heritage Site and one of the most beautiful temples you will visit in Japan.  Kiyomizu-dera temple is located halfway up Mount Otawa which is part of the Higashiyama mountain range outside of Kyoto.

The Kiyomizu Temple was built in 778 A.D. by the monk Kenshin who built an image of Kannon on the mountain overlooking the Otawa Falls. The area of the temple is quite vast, spreading over 155,000 yd.², encompassing over 30 buildings, including the main hall which stands to honor the deity Kannon. After that, a general built a Buddha hall there and the temple came under the emperor’s patronage. It was destroyed by fire multiple times over the centuries and rebuilt on each occasion.

Today, there are a number of different temple buildings in the complex as well as other shrines, which venerate many of the local Shinto gods. The Central building called the Hondo was built in 1633 and is an example of Japanese architecture which has an opposing stage that is supported by a forest of column braces, running through crosswise and lengthwise. This is a beautiful temple in a natural forest scenery on the mountain.

According to legend, an old man in white, appeared to the ascetic monk Kenshin and told him to leave Kyoto and travel north where he climbed Mount Otawa until he came to a beautiful gushing waterfall of pure water, where he came upon an old priest who told Kenshin that he had been waiting for him and asked that he carve a tree into a statue for the 11-headed thousand-armed deity Kannon Bodhisattva and then he disappeared. Realizing this was a holy site, Kenshin did as the priest had requested and also took care of the old priest’s hut, and this was the beginning of the temple grounds.

After enjoying the temple walk, we then went to Nishiki Market to grab some lunch.

Nishiki Market

This market has a compact walkway with shops on both sides. It’s a pretty popular tourist destination so be aware that it’s often packed with people, the security guard walked up and down the hallway holding a sign “keep to the left” yelling at the same time to monitor traffic.

There are restaurants, dessert shops, fresh seafoods, snacks, souvenir shops, etc., at this market! However, prices are a bit more expensive it seems, typical for a heavy tourist site.

Kyoto Imperial Palace

The Kyoto imperial Palace was the primary residence for Japan’s royalty for over a millennium, until 1868 when the capital was moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. From 794 A.D., the palace has undergone a number of modifications and reconstructions, with the current structures completed in 1855.

The palace buildings are surrounded by beautiful gardens and many different structures included for ceremonial and other purposes like guest reception, carriage access and storage, halls and plazas for various ceremonial proceedings, libraries, etc.

Japanese Soccer Field 蹴鞠場 Cuju

Cuju was a type of ancient Japanese sport using just your feet and head to move the ball to the net in between 2 poles, somewhat akin to modern day soccer. It originated in ancient China during the Han Dynasty where military generals used it for training purposes and the emperors and the nobles played the game for pleasure. The game was further improved during Tang Dynasty.

Carriage Porch

Room That Houses the Imperial Regalia

One of the most important buildings is the one used for storage of the three primary Japanese imperial regalia (consisting of the sword, the mirror, and the jewel, each representing the three primary virtues, namely, valor, wisdom, and benevolence).

I’m always fascinated with the intricate design of roof architecture in the palace buildings. For example, it appears that one of the lower layers of the roof structure comprises multiple pressed wood shingles, which have been stacked one on top of the other and compressed together in order to provide a unique feature to the roof structure. Beautiful!

One of the best things about visiting the Kyoto Imperial Palace is that admission is free! The palace grounds are open to the public throughout the year except on Mondays. There are also free guided tours at 10 AM and 2 PM, these are great opportunities to learn more about the history of the palace and the imperial family and the tours are given in English. Definitely check those out.

Kyoto Sento Imperial Palace 京都仙洞御所

We weren’t able to go inside the actual Kyoto Sento Imperial Palace building because we had EC, our nieces and nephew who were under 18 with us. Children aren’t allowed inside this part of the palace unfortunately but we were able to walk all around it and enjoy the exterior grounds and gardens.

Sento Imperial Palace has a large garden and was formerly the residence of retired emperors. It was built in 1630 as the retirement palace for Emperor Go-Mizuno along with Omiya Palace for Empress Dowager Nyoin. Both palaces were destroyed by fire, rebuilt, and were destroyed in 1854, after which Sento was never reconstructed. Omiya Palace was however reconstructed and is still in use by the emperor when he visits.

The main attractions of the palace are its gardens and ponds completed by the remaining two structures; Seika-tei and Yushin-tei.

Day 2

We left for sightseeing and hiking even earlier this morning, trying to get out before the heat.  First stop at Arashimaya Bamboo Forest, then to Kinkakuji temple, then walked a mile to Ryoanji temple and the famous rock garden. 

Right before getting to Arashimaya Bamboo Forest, we came across the famous Togetsuyo Bridge!

Togetsujyo Bridge

Arashimaya Bamboo Forest

The walk at Arashimaya was very nice and the ambience was serene. Not yet packed with people at this time but there were already some joggers and a few tourists inside the park.

Exploring the forest …

Kinkakuji temple was our second stop this morning. It opens at 9am and we were there lining up at 8:45am. Here’s the contrast within minutes after we queued up!

Kinkakuji 金閣

It is said that Kinkakuji, or Temple of the Golden Pavilion in Kyoto is covered with 20kg of pure gold! Of course, kevan quickly did the math to estimate the current value of that much gold. The pavilion was built in 1397 as the retirement villa of shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, the third shogun of the Muromachi Shogunate, and was given to a monk to convert into a zen temple after his death in 1408. Although tourists are not allowed to enter the pavilion, the first two floors of the pavilion are covered with gold leaf intended to purify unclean and negative thoughts and feelings against death.

The entrance fee to the pavilion is 600 yen for adults and 300 yen for children and students.

At the roof of the pavilion stands a golden Phoenix.

Kinkakujicho

This Rikushu pine tree was Ashikaga’s favorite pine. It is also one of the famous pine trees in Kyoto.

White Snake Mound 白蛇の塚 (Hakuja-No-tsuka).

This stone pavilion located in the middle of the Tranquillity Pond. It is dedicated to Hakuja believed to control the waters in the complex.

We walked for about 1 mile from Kinkakuji to Ryoan-ji for a zen experience at the temple.

Ryoan -Ji (The Temple of the Dragon at Peace)

Ryoan-ji 龍安寺 is a refined Japanese zen temple using dry landscape (kare-sansui) in the garden for meditation. The garden comprises 15 bigger rocks arranged into different groups, one group has 5 rocks, two groups have 3 rocks each and two other groups have 2 rocks each. These rocks are arranged in a distinctive way amidst smaller smoother rocks. There were many different explanations of the meaning of the rock arrangement, kevan came up with his own version of what the rocks mean based on how they are arranged and progress across the garden.

Kevan heard one of the workers briefly talking to a visitor, couldn’t make much out, but based on the mention of a tiger and three cubs, it sounded like the story from Chinese legend, I believe, where a tiger has three cubs, one of which is always assume to be a leopard. Since the leopard will eat a tiger cub if left alone, the mother is left with the challenge of getting all three cubs across the river without any of them being eaten by the leopard. How does she do it? When you look at the rocks, it’s possible that the tiger and three cubs could be represented by some of the rocks in different positions and places throughout the garden. The solution appears to be for the mother to take the leopard to the other side of the river, then return for one of the cubs, taking the cub to the other side, then returning with the leopard and leaving the leopard on one side while returning with the 2nd cub. Then she is able to return for the final trip to pick up the leopard and return it to the other side of the river safely, having accomplished her objective. The objective requires her to stay focused, use her intelligence and wisdom, and exert significant energy to solve the problem in front of her, ultimately resulting In successfully achieving the objective.

You definitely want to go and check it out, just sit there and enjoy the quiet and consider what these arrangements might mean m. I did and it was quite refreshing.

Tsukubai in Ryoan-ji

Tsukubai refers to a mantle in front of a temple, usually made of stone and includes a small ladle to scoop up water from the basin below or from a bamboo pipe called a kakei.
The tsukubai in this picture is rather famous and is located at the Ryōan-ji temple in Kyoto, donated by the feudal lord Tokugawa Mitsukuni. The kanji characters on the surface of the stone are meaningless when read in isolation. but they have significance when attached to the character in the middle representing 口 (kuchi), which is also the shape of the central bowl. When these four characters are each separately attached to the central character, the phrase then literally translates to 吾, 唯, 足, 知 ( “I only know plenty” (吾 = ware = I, 唯 = tada = only, 足 = taru = plenty, 知= shiru = know).

The true meaning of the phrase is perhaps best translated as “what one has is all one needs”, expressing the sentiment that characterizes the intrinsic value of gratitude and contentment with ones current situation. This teaching of peace and contentment is an element of the anti-materialistic teachings of Buddhism.

The oldest Camellia tree (Wabisuke Tsubaki) in Japan.

An interesting observation by my niece’s hubby regarding the fascinating and intricate multi-layered wood pressed together to form a supporting arch in Japanese architecture.

Day 3

This morning we left the hotel just after 5 AM to get to Fushimi-Inari.  Got there just in time to grasp a little glimpse of a gorgeous sunrise.

Fushimi Inari-Taisha 伏見稲荷大社

Hiking up Fushimi early in the morning was amazing.  Very few people were up and going at this time and the weather was prime.  Beautiful scenic overlook of Kyoto at a little over halfway into the hike.  

The main gate or the “tower gate” (樓門 Romon) leading to the main shrine (御本殿, go-honden)

Fushimi Inari is a famous Shinto shrine in Kyoto dedicated to the deity of rice and agriculture and businesses. The key attraction of this shrine is the torii aligning both sides of the path leading to the main shrine (御本殿, go-honden) through the main gate or the “tower gate” (樓門 Romon). The inner shrine (奥宮 okumiya), located in the middle of the mountain Inari, can be reached from hiking along the torii gates, which are lined parallel along the path forming Senbon torii, a tunnel-like path. Toriis are donated by individuals and businesses as a token of gratitude for wishes granted or in hope of wishes to be fulfilled. Donor names are inscribed at the back of the torii.

Foxes were believed to be messengers of kami Inari and are seen all along the path. It is especially crowded during Japanese New Year as the shrine draws millions of worshippers during that time.

After the first stop at a scenic overlook of the city, located about 75% up the peak, Kevan continued to jog up the steps while I headed down the mountain.

Nijo Castle

Ninomaru Goten Palace

Nijo-jo is an amazing castle constructed in 1603 by the first Shogun of the Edo shogunate who ruled from 1603 to 1867. In 1867, the 15th and final shogun, named Tokugawa Yoshinobu, surrendered his authority over the country to the emperor at this location, which brought 700 years of samurai rule across Japan to an end. After 1884, the castle was used occasionally by the imperial family as a residence, and then in 1939, it was presented to Kyoto city. In 1994 it was registered as a world heritage site. Huge castle and great architecture.

Entrance fee is $800 outside admission and $1300 for outside and inside admission. For inside admission, you can enter the palace and observe all the rooms with different functions. Also, each room is lined with specific murals such as cranes, tigers, peonies etc.. which signified status of people the shogun and later the emperors entertained.

Honmaru Goten Palace

Seiryu-en Garden

A fusion of Eastern and Western styles

The Moat for Defense

We explored Gion and watched a performance at Gion Corner at night.

Gion

Gion is an area in Kyoto that is very famous as it is a location with many shops, restaurants, tea houses, and other places where geisha girls and their apprentices entertain. It is located around Shiijo Avenue between Yasaka shrine in the east and the Kamo River in the West.

This is a nice place to stroll and dine, obviously everyone wants to catch a glimpse of a geisha or Geiko, if you do, be sure to act respectfully, as many have offended the locals with aggressive photography and other disrespectful approaches. In fact, the local government is currently looking into closing certain areas of Gion for this very reason.

Gion Performance Theatre

The program was about an hour long and included seven different areas of geisha expertise. The first was the art of tea preparation, which is referred to as chanayou. Next came Koto music, then Ikebana flower arrangement, then Bugaku dance, followed by Kyogen comedy and finally kyomai dance.

Each of these were truly spectacular. As an example, the formality of the preparation and flow of serving powdered green tea is amazing. The whole ritual follows a formalized flow that is specifically designed to articulate through form and motion the principles that exist within the tea serving tradition and create and great experience for both the guest and the host. This exemplifies the culture of tea drinking that has developed over the centuries following the first arrival of tea into Japan from China. This happened in about the 12th century with tea drinking being used primarily for perceived health benefits, but then drinking green tea became a pleasure and a pastime for the elite. This led to the “way of tea” referred to as Sado or Chado, which was a discipline for refining the self through Chanoyu, which arose in the 15th and 16th centuries. Some of the principles that are expressed through this ceremony include harmony, respect, purity, and tranquility

Photo taking is prohibited at the venue and during performance.

Tempura Ten no Meishi

We then had dinner at Tenpura Ten no Meishi. Great food and amazing service❤️. I was especially amazed at how tender their chicken tempura was. Kevan said the tempura wagyu was also very good.

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